Pear-shaped lab-grown diamond engagement ring with a halo and pear side stones

The Journal

Which Diamond Shape Is Right for Her?

Of everything involved in choosing a ring, shape is the decision people agonize over most. It's also the one with no right answer in general, only a right answer for one particular person.

Here's the short tour, then the question that actually settles it.

What the shapes do

Oval

Oval. Elongated, covers more length across the finger, and tends to look larger than its weight.
Oval. Elongated, covers more length across the finger, and tends to look larger than its weight. It's the shape we're asked for most.

Radiant

Radiant. A rectangle cut for sparkle.
Radiant. A rectangle cut for sparkle. Crisp corners, lots of life.

Emerald

Emerald. A step cut with broad, open facets.
Emerald. A step cut with broad, open facets that flash rather than sparkle. Calm and architectural, understated even at size.

Marquise

Marquise. Dramatic and generous for its weight.
Marquise. Dramatic and generous for its weight. The points need a setting built to protect them.

Round

Throws the most light. It's the classic, and it costs the most per carat, partly because cutting one wastes more of the rough.

Pear

Like the marquise, dramatic and generous for its weight, with a point that needs protecting.

Princess and squares

Sharp and modern. They keep more of the original rough, which often makes them good value.

Cushion

Softer, a little antique in feeling, with a warmer return of light.

That's the whole tour. There's no test at the end.

The question that actually settles it

It isn't “which shape is best.” It's what she already wears, and what she does all day.

Someone whose jewelry is delicate and minimal rarely falls for something large and ornate, however good the value. Someone with a bold, architectural style may find a classic round a little underwhelming. And someone who works with her hands, whether in medicine, a hands-on trade or with small children, will quietly stop wearing anything that catches on everything she touches.

That last one matters more than people expect. A ring that comes off is a ring that gets lost.

The best research costs nothing

Ask her closest friend.

In our experience, the friend knows exactly: the shape, the metal, whether she wants attention on her hand or would rather not. She's usually been waiting years for someone to ask. It's the most reliable source of information in this whole process, and almost nobody uses it.

Then tell us, and we'll take it from there

You don't need to arrive with a shape decided. Tell us what she wears, what she does, anything she's mentioned in passing, and what you're comfortable spending.

We'll come back with two or three directions that genuinely suit her and explain why each one is on the list. If one is obviously right, you'll know the moment you see it. That's usually how it goes. And if you already know exactly what you want, even easier. We'll go find it.

Tell us what you're celebrating

No pressure, no homework, no fourteen tabs. Just a short conversation and a handful of options we'd be proud to put in front of you.

Tell us what you're looking for →

Keep reading: Carat Isn't Everything: How to Get More From Your Diamond Budget · The Part of the Ring Nobody Talks About

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